Chicago is Prominent in James Beard Foundation Semi-finalist Group

By Laura Hansen at 4:38 pm on February 22, 2010 | No comments

The new James Beard Foundation semi-finalists include a healthy selection of chefs and restaurants from Chicago and the Suburbs. There is a total of 397 semi-finalists that will be voted on March 22nd in New Orleans.  The winners will be chosen May 3rd in New York City. LH

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTEUR

Donald J. Madia: Avec, Big Star Taqueria and Bar, Blackbird, The Publican and The Violet Hour

Richard Melman, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises

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Paul Kahan (photo courtesy of Sky Full of Bacon Blog)

OUTSTANDING CHEF

Jean Joho – Everest

Paul Kahan, Blackbird

OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT

Les Nomades

Spiaggia

RISING STAR CHEF

Josh Adams, June, Peoria Heights, IL

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

Cibo Matto at the Wit

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Dish served at Alinea

OUTSTANDING PASTRY CHEF

Mindy Segal, Hot Chocolate

OUTSTANDING WINE SERVICE

Alinea

NoMi at the Park Hyatt

OUTSTANDING WINE AND SPIRITS PROFESSIONAL

Brian Duncan, Bin 36

Alpana Singh, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises

OUTSTANDING SERVICE

Alinea

Carlos, Highland Park, IL

koren
Chef Koren Grieveson, Avec

BEST CHEF GREAT LAKES

Michael Carlson, Schwa

Curtis Duffy, Avenues at the Penninsula

Koren Grieveson, Avec

Bill Kim, Urbanbelly

Chris Nugent, Les Namades

Arun Sampanthavivat, Arun’s

Bruce Sherman, North Pond

Giuseppe Tentori, Boka

Paul Virant, Vie, Western Springs, IL


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Cozy up to LuxBar

By Laura Hansen at 12:55 pm on February 21, 2010 | No comments

 luxbarjames
James, our great server!

I was invited to sample the menu at LuxBar and it had been some time since I’d been there.  Friday late lunch – in the main room next to the cozy fireplace. The Olympics were on, and some TV’s were tuned to discussion about Tiger Woods.

 Luxbar is owned by Gibson’s Restaurant Group which also brings us the famous steak house, Quartino, and Hugo’s Frog Bar.  It’s also known for having a well stocked bar, and a great wine list (with many selections by the glass).  So, many of their casual menu offerings are the perfect accompaniment to a few cocktails.

 I brought along my friend Katherine – who’s bigger than life personality can fill a room.  She would make a nice taste mate for the festivities.  We met James, our server and spent a little time getting to know him.  He did not know he’d be spending the lion’s share of the afternoon with us – but I do think we grew on him!  He’s a responsible and mature young man who’s studying to be a science teacher (everyone knows we need more of them!).  He also takes care of his customers.  As I have written before – make sure the front of the house is in order.  I complimented James to the chef – he’s lucky to have such a caring employee.

 As you may know, Luxbar is smack dab in the middle of the Rush Street area – so there are a variety of patrons that can show up there:  conventioneers, beautiful people from the neighborhood, film and television stars and regular Joe’s.  I think the menu fit’s the neighborhood.  We sampled from their lunch/appetizer fare.

 We tried the baby back ribs. James suggested we have the sauce on the side (and that was a good suggestion).  The ribs did have a rub on there – but either the rub was not spiked enough with flavors, or was applied lightly and close to cooking – either way the rub or the rib flavor did not stand out.  The ribs were small and did not have a lot of meat to sink yourself into either.  The accompanying cole slaw was watery and bland.

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Truffle Fries

 Here’s some good news.  We tried the truffle French fries with grated parmesan served with a garlic aioli sauce.  These were just plain yummy!  There was a combination of crispy and soft fries (which I prefer).  They applied the truffle oil just right. This can be difficult – most people use a heavy hand.  Just a very light touch gives the fries some depth of flavor and earthiness that is perfect.  The parmesan cheese gave a nice, appropriate saltiness.  And, the garlic aioli was terrific – I thought about showering in the stuff.  Would that be a good thing?

 We tried the steak and black bean chili.  No one should be afraid of heat here.  It was much more like a beef and bean soup.  The meat was broken down so it tasted like mom’s pot roast.  Now, don’t get me wrong, I love mom’s pot roast – but I wasn’t expecting it in chili.  They used little black round beans. They felt al dente to me – I wanted those beans to spend a few hours in the chili.  And, there was no substantial chili seasoning to be found; it was much too mellow for my taste. 

 I was interested in the steak and iceburg wedge – that retro 70’s salad that’s easy to execute but hard to master. I asked James about the blue cheese dressing.  The wedge salad typically has blue cheese, blue cheese dressing, bacon and tomatoes.  He brought out a sample of the blue cheese dressing and the choir started, and the angels sang!  Yes, it was supercalafragalistic blue cheese dressing!  I started to swoop the fries in the dressing.  I started getting anxiety thinking that I would have to lick that little cup he gave me dry! I am an admitted snob about blue cheese dressing, and I tend to get really excited when I find a good one.  The last one I loved was at Jim McMahon’s (now closed) sports bar/restaurant on Milwaukee in Glenview.  And, what was it about the dressing that makes it great?  Why, it’s a kick of Tabasco.  The chef was kind enough to give us the basic ingredients. I think I can do a pretty good job (and perhaps you can too) with the listed items.  So, the steak wedge salad was a home run due to the terrific blue cheese salad dressing.  All of that smoked bacon, diced tomato and “good” blue cheese helped it’s yummyness as well!

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1/2 of a steak & iceburg wedge salad with blue cheese

 Luxbar has so many other choices we did not get to: a variety of sliders, burgers, sandwiches and soups.  It’s also got some great sides like truffle mac and cheese, tangled onions and roasted veggies.  Desserts include retro favorites like a banana split, cookie sundae and chocolate cake.

 All in all, the experience was good – the atmosphere, James our server, a discussion with the chef, and great fries and blue cheese dressing filled our tummies with Friday afternoon happiness!

LUXBAR BLUE CHEESE DRESSING INGREDIENTS

 Mayonnaise

Buttermilk

Blue Cheese

Onion Powder

Tabasco Sauce

Worcestershire Sauce

Salt and pepper to taste

 LUXBAR

18 E Bellevue Place

Chicago, IL

312-642-3400

www.luxbar.com


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Chicago Restaurant Week February 19th – 28th

By Laura Hansen at 2:43 pm on February 20, 2010 | No comments

chicagorestaurantweek

Chicago’s third annual Restaurant week has started. It’s a great way to sample restaurants while honoring your budget.  Lunches are a fixed price of $22 for 3 courses.  Dinners run $32 for 3 courses.  This does not include tax and gratituity.

As of today, there are over 170 restaurants participating – support just keeps growing. For a full list of restaurants, go to: http://www.choosechicago.com/eatitup/Pages/Restaurant.aspx

NOTE:  I have just found a very cool tool to use during restaurant week.  It will calculate the savings so you can decide (from a money perspective) if it’s worth trying a particular restaurant.  Here’s the link: http://www.avclub.com/chicago/articles/restaurant-week-calculator,3840 8/.


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Worst of the Worst: Natalino’s

By Laura Hansen at 11:55 am on February 17, 2010 | No comments

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Last Saturday night, the culinary rat pack descended upon Natalino’s on Chicago Avenue. They’ve been in the space a little over two years (certainly enough time to work out the kinks). We had a party of 10 during Valentines Day weekend (which typically is a busy time). This was no exception – the house was full.

Before I go into the rant on this evening, let’s be clear. The intention of my blog is to find great dishes. I am not looking for the bad dish or restaurant scenario – there are plenty of yelper’s out there for that purpose. However, I am making an exception because this evening was so bad I felt it was important to write about it.

We had an 8 pm reservation and all parties were present and accounted for. We waited a half hour to be seated and then another half hour before anyone showed up at our table. We were hungry and wanted a cocktail. When our server showed up, she spread her cheery energy and apologized for the delay. We felt a little better. Then the wine bottles showed up, but there were no glasses and no opener. This just started an evening that quickly went further down hill.

Fellow diner Coleen weighs in on the “welcome” experience: “Then to wait such an excessively long time to even be acknowledged- missing wine glasses missing plates and silverware missing chairs that we had to get ourselves Then to be given not enough menus and be told that he couldn’t get us drinks because he wasn’t our server Next on to our over bubbly waitress. Not that I’m not saying she was making the best of a bad situation but thank you Dori… I did find her obnoxious also. I really didn’t need to know she is going thru a divorce and that she still gets along with her ex or how many children she has …”

Although we are all real food lovers (and some of us are thin the business), I believe that typically, we are full of optimism and show up with an open attitude. And, throughout this long, painful evening – we kept saying “oh, the next round of food will be better.” And, it just kept getting worse.

I think we were so ravenous that when it came to ordering appetizers we could not stop. I am pretty sure we ordered almost everything: baked clams, mussels, eggplant, sausages with peppers, stuffed pepper, calamari two ways, Caesar salad. Every single dish was bad except the stuffed pepper. The calamari was cold and soggy (they forgot to bring us the second calamari). The Caesar salad was ordered without croutons. It came with croutons. We took it back, it came out without croutons, but the salad was mushy and the dressing was tasteless.

Giles went upstairs to speak to the manager. A few minutes later, the chef came downstairs. He appeared defeated, dirty and disheveled. He said the economy was bad; it was dead during the week, and hard to get people to work when the restaurant was busy. He took no responsibility for the situation. He claimed he would rise above all of this and ensured us that our entrée’s would be well prepared. And, we wanted to believe him!

This guy is part owner here. I think of executive chefs as CEO’s of their kitchens. They need to take responsibility and leadership roles – source the best ingredients and have good staff cooking. Put love in the food, serve it hot (or appropriately) and make sure it looks decent. None of that occurred. Why was he in charge?

The entrée’s came out – he was missing mine and Brian’s. They did not acknowledge this. And, our food did not come out for another 10 minutes. Out of ten dishes – two were edible: the baked chicken (hard to screw that up), and the veal saltimbocca. My risotto was overcooked. Giles seafood was overcooked. One of the pasta dishes did not yet make it to al dente.

We brought the chef back down. We showed him the problems with each dish. At one point, he yelled back at an employee who was with him (in front of all of us): “You tell _____, if he ever puts out a dish like this again, he’s fired.” The chef told us the only dish he made was the saltimbocca. So, even though he promised to watch over our dishes and take care of this, he did not even look at what he was putting out for us. 

Am I in a Reality TV program here? Where is Gordon Ramsey?

He said his dessert would be second to none. It was not edible. He placed mango and banana on a plate doused in some type of “bananas foster sauce”, and placed a scoop of vanilla ice cream in the middle. They used some type of butane lighter NOT to heat the fruit. It was really just there to soak the fruit with the foul smell of fuel.

We did not bother bringing the chef down after the fuel infused dessert. We know the economy ruined our dessert. Yeah – that was it!


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Retro 1960’s Dinner

By Laura Hansen at 1:17 pm on February 13, 2010 | No comments

retronightchicken1
Chicken Cordon Bleu

The culinary rat pack gathered at Dori’s for “retro 1960’s night” -music, cuisine and cocktails all had the flair.  Here’s the menu:

Appetizers

Chicken Liver Pate

Toast points

Shrimp Butter

Blue cheese chili dip

Drunken Frog Legs

Waldorf Salad

Shrimp Cocktail

 Entrees

Lobster Thermidor    

Tournedos of Beef with Bordelaise Sauce    

Boeuf bourguinonne        

Chicken Cordon Bleu    

Potatoes dauphinoise     

 Dessert

Cream Puffs

Obviously, everything was pretty low calorie back in the 60’s.  We had the artery ambulance outside just in case.  Dori has an amazing ability to source both great seafood, beef and piggy.  And, if you can judge a woman by the size of her shrimp, well..

retro60sshrimpbutter
Chef Daniel Kelly pitched in to create those drunken frog’s legs and they were really pretty laid out by the end.  And, really – they do taste a little like chicken.

I made the shrimp butter – and it was both rich and yet subtle.  I spent some time researching  1960’s recipes. They were bare bones simple.  A cheeseball rolled in nuts and served with Melba Toast.  Caviar and shrimp were the fanciest of appetizers for sure.  Every once and a while you would see some crab.

 retrodinnerfrogslegs
Drunken Frog Legs

The Lobster Thermidor was so rich – and Dori was able to stop cooking the lobster just before it was headed into “the tough zone.”

Patrick honored Julia Child by cooking her Beef Bourguinonne – served lovingly on top of comforting mash potatoes and sprinkled with peas.

Brian made chicken cordon bleu for the green giant – those were some large pieces. I often suspect that when all of us leave Dori’s house a team of elves come out and clean up the rest of the food!

We ended up not having room in our tummy’s for much more food, so we cut back dessert to some fantastic cream puffs by Joe. To quote Giles “These are the best cream puffs I have every had!” Coleen also made these really darling spoonfuls of chocolate (which was about the size we could really fit in our stomachs by then.)

I am not sure we want to venture too far back (like the 40’s), but we will certainly move forward!
 creampuffs2
Joe’s Cream Puffs

SHRIMP BUTTER

Ingredients

  • 3/4 pound small shrimp
  • 2 Tablespoons minced onion
  • juice of ½ lemon
  • 4 Tablespoons mayonnaise
  • 1 ½ sticks soft butter
  • 1 8 ounce package cream cheese
  • salt to taste

Directions

 

  • Mix all ingredients except shrimp
  • Add shrimp

 Serve with crackers


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