
Giles started to hear the buzz about great food at Amelia’s Mestizo Grill on Halsted. Chef Eusevio Garcia migrated from Mundial Cocina Mestiza restaurant in Pilsen and brought his menu with him. Amelia’s Grille has been in the Back of the Yards neighborhood serving traditional Mexican food for over ten years.
Amelia’s is settled into a quaint storefront building in the middle of an industrial area. Across the street are big stacks of unused railcars. In my mind, that area reminded of the place grandpa decided to stay in his home even though almost everyone else had moved.
But, with a restaurant like Amelia’s, the food is so outstanding that it should not matter. It will (or should) end up being a destination place due to the creativity of Chef Garcia.
The interior is full – floor to ceiling – with exposed brick. It’s cozied up by incorporating the warm colors of Mexico – red booths, orange textured drapes. There is indigenous colorful artwork displayed, authentic wood carvings and textured brick to give one the feeling that we just stumbled into this place around the corner in a little Mexican town.
Everyone was friendly and accommodating. I made friends with young Andy, who poured our water and wasn’t used to such open people. Our server was a champion of the food and certainly took ownership of our choices.
With each dish, Chef Garcia takes what we all consider traditional Mexican cuisine, and turns it on its ear. It’s really full of surprise, both in how it’s presented, and absolutely in how it tastes. There is a hint of the traditional, but so many other taste sensations overlaid in a sophisticated way.
We ordered a tamal judio – tamale layered with puree of black beans, green mole and shredded chicken. It’s a little hard to describe, but the tamale itself was not like any other I’ve ever had. It was moist and very very dense. The moist chicken was covered in this black bean and mole blended sauce that had been married and the kicked flavor was just on its honeymoon. This was a kick, but it was a kick of seduction. With each bite of that seasoned chicken, one wanted to go searching for some of that tamale and to keep going. The more I think about it, I think it’s that mole that brought the seductive heat. A few nuts on top gave the dish added texture.

Quesadilla de Cuitlacoche
We also ordered quesadilla de cuitcacoche. Corn truffle, Oaxaca cheese, epazote, roasted corn salad and black bean and tomato salsa. I felt my mouth was dancing like Shakira while I was eating this. It was a big fiesta. The surprising lime tartness just showing up along with the comfort of the cheese, the earthiness of the black beans and texture of the organic greens on top. This was akin to a fire cracker popping – one taste discovery at a time. The best of the best!
We ordered two entrees – the first was camarones a la diabla: jumbo shrimp, garlic, applewood bacon, roasted peppers, scallions and zesty valentine sauce. There was rice that you could also lovingly drag around to attract the roasted peppers and bacon. Giles asked that the shrimp be cooked just a tad under to keep its firmness and they did exactly that. Again, this is a dish with a sauciness and fire crackers of savory flavor.

Rib Eye San Pedro
We wanted to order a beef entrée, and our server drew us back every time to try the ribeye san pedro (potato wedges, poblano rajas, asiago cheese, red wine sauce with cuitlacoche butter.) Outstanding. It was such a proud, sexy male looking dish with the steak pointing to a mound of thick, crispy, tasty potatoes. The steak was seasoned to perfection. I can’t quite describe the seasoning except that there was a hint of traditional Mexican flavors (cumin, lime, cilantro, for example) and “something else.” Giles and I agreed that it was not the finest cut of beef we ever had but it did not matter – it was flavorishous and cooked to perfection. I wanted to know… what was the magic?
For dessert I launched right into the crepas locas (caramelized bananas, marshmallows, chocolate chips, caramel sauce and chef’s ice cream.) Every single ingredient is one that would make me happy. This dessert was whimsical and amusing. The crepe was not thin, it was thick and dense. I guess I was looking for the grown up version of this – with home made marshmallow perhaps a little fire crisped, and real chocolate cascading chips made by a Mexican chocolatier.

Blueberry Bread Pudding
Giles ordered blueberry bread pudding with chocolate chips, apricot campote, mix berry sauce and cherry ice cream. The bread pudding was so comforting I built a fantasy of coming in from ice skating and being served this warm with a cup of hot cocoa. The cherry ice cream was a nice surprise.
Amelia’s is currently BYOB. I would suggest you come and BYOB often – it’s a destination restaurant! Next for Chef Garcia – I would like to see new specials and culinary inventions that further stretch his creativity.
Amelia’s Mestizo Grill
4559 S. Halsted
Chicago, IL 773-538-8200