This is Part 2 in a series from the critics at Crain’s Chicago Business on the best places for business lunches.
DELACOSTA
Nuevo Latino
465 E. Illinois St.
(312)Â 464-1700
http://www.delacostachicago.com/
Edgy and imaginative, with theatrical flourishes and sizzling Nuevo Latino food, DeLaCosta stands apart from the mahogany- and leather-bound competition.
Where else would you find Tim Burton-esque marionettes and ghostly white masks?
At night, this artsy North Pier space can really rock; it’s better for festive occasions. During lunch it is nearly empty – a shame, because the roomy booths, ice-breaking décor and inventive cuisine are memorable. But it’s quiet enough to get work done.
The food reminds me of the music, contemporary and jazzy; it blends Spanish, South American and Caribbean flavors.
Ceviches are a must, bright and bold combinations of sweet and hot. Among the best: the fire and ice ($15) with Thai chile, fresh coconut and galangal, a ginger-like seasoning.
Hot and sweet peppers add zing to a smoked, shredded marlin sandwich on rye ($12) blanketed with mahon cheese.
Clever and delicious, the chocolate cigar ($7) comes with a side of chocolate ashes and candy matchbook – DeLaCosta’s answer to the smoking ban.
THE GAGE
Gastropub
24 S. Michigan Ave.
(312)Â 372-4243
http://www.thegagechicago.com/
With a gracious ambiance and imaginative menu, 2007 newcomer the Gage has become an instant casual favorite on a largely restaurant-free stretch of Michigan Avenue near Millennium Park. The vintage building and interior details – gray tin ceilings, glazed subway wall tiles, dark wood – lend an authentic vibe, backed up in spades by Irish owner Billy Lawless and his friendly, knowledgeable staff.
Modern takes on rich, stick-to-your-ribs dishes are where chef Dirk Flanigan has his fun. House-made sausages ($16) and roasted Amish chicken ($15) are hearty treats, as is the USDA prime burger ($14) with caramelized onions and Camembert. Crisp potato wedges and gooey planks of taleggio cheese play off peppery arugula and crème fraîche onion dressing in a terrific starter salad ($7) – not your ordinary plate of mesclun.
The Gage is a welcoming spot for larger groups. An extensive drink menu – lots of beers and single-malt scotches – keeps the bar area abuzz for after-work schmoozing, too
GIBSONS BAR & STEAKHOUSE
Steakhouse
1028 N. Rush St.
(312)Â 266-8999
http://www.gibsonssteakhouse.com/
Gibsons is everything a Chicago steakhouse aspires to be: clubby, the center of the action and a bit larger than life. Yes, that’s an alderman in the corner, a CEO across the way and a pro baseball player in the booth. This place is generally packed day in and day out with big-deal business folks and other movers and shakers.
The food is larger than life, too, starring enormous steaks, from porterhouse ($44) to filet ($35), and all kinds of chops (lamb, veal and pork, $38-$28). Newcomers will be treated to a tableside introduction of all the raw cuts.
Sides and desserts are equally outsized. Plan on sharing the huge double-baked potato ($7) or the platter of sautéed spinach and mushrooms ($13). A slice of carrot cake ($14) – in fact, it’s one-quarter of a cake – could easily feed four. Cocktails are just as big, natch. The three-martini lunch may be alive and well here – except all three fit in one Gibsons glass.
JOE’S SEAFOOD, PRIME STEAK & STONE CRAB
Seafood and steakhouse
60 E. Grand Ave.
(312)Â 379-5637
www.icon.com/joes
Equal parts entertainment and good cooking, Joe’s serves up a classic seafood and steak experience, complete with masculine décor, large portions and delightfully cheeky but consummate waiters. A lively bar area gives way to a spacious yet cozy dining room, with plenty of banquettes and round tables for the ample number of large parties that come here.
The chain’s Florida heritage comes into play on a menu stocked with regional seafood such as delicious, simply grilled grouper ($18) and the justly famous stone crabs, in all sizes (market price). Steak is expert.
For a bit more decadence, try crab-stuffed sole in lobster sauce, delicate and full of flavor ($22). “Jennie’s” potatoes will do the trick, too: mashed with taleggio and asiago cheeses and covered in breadcrumbs ($4).
Pie lovers are in for a treat. Dessert features a full lineup of old-fashioned varieties, including Key lime, peanut butter, butterscotch chiffon, banana cream and Boston cream. Try a few, if you like; they’re available in half-slices ($3-$4).
KEEFER’S
Steakhouse
20 W. Kinzie St.
(312)Â 467-9525
http://www.keefersrestaurant.com/
For working lunches in River North, Keefer’s is the go-to spot.
Well-spaced tables, razor-sharp service and sound-absorbing acoustics pay off in productive lunch hours with colleagues or customers.
Black-leather booths, linen tablecloths and granite and cherrywood accents say classic steakhouse. But the contemporary, circular architecture, airy interior and wide-ranging fare are new school.
Sixteen-foot floor-to-ceiling windows frame the central dining room; the massive, 50-foot, crescent-shaped bar is surrounded by booths and tables.
Executive chef John Hogan’s straight-shooting menu is far more ambitious than most, particularly at lunch, when you’ll find more than 20 solid options. Among them, eggs Benedict with black truffles ($13.95); lobster, shrimp and mussels pot pie ($19.95), and organic salmon with potato horseradish crust, lentils and buerre blanc ($25.95).
And then there’s prime steak, like a hefty rib eye sandwich with maître d’ butter ($26.95).
You’ll get a lot of bang for the buck. Soup or salad and potato are included with lunch entrees.
KIKI’S BISTRO
Classic French
900 N. Franklin St.
(312) 335-5454
http://www.kikisbistro.com/
If there is a master plan for French bistros, Kiki’s in River North wrote it.
This 17-year-old bastion of frog legs and coq au vin is off the beaten path and utterly charming. If you can’t kindle a deal or a romance here, you can’t do it anywhere.
At lunch the tenor is kicked-back; at night the clientele is rather debonair. Either way, it works for good conversation, whether in-depth or flirtatious.
The rustic décor still feels fresh. Pink linen tablecloths and a flock of rooster tchotchkes soften rugged wood ceiling beams and dark-wood floors.
The timeless menu provides some of the best French bistro cooking in the city.
Open lunch with smoky grilled shrimp and onion relish ($9.50). Steak-frites sandwich ($13.75) is great, but be different with pan-seared pork tenderloin ($14.75) next to green lentils, carrots and turnips.
Delicate, crisp pastry encases poached pears with caramel sauce in croustade de poire ($6.75).
READER’S COMMENT: “The food and service are awesome. You can sit and meet with clients for a long time with no pressure to pay up and get out.”
LE LAN
Asian-French
749 N. Clark St.
(312) 280-9100
http://www.lelanrestaurant.com/
Long popular for dinner, this Asian-French bistro opened for lunch in summer 2007. The result is a stylish oasis for sophisticated business dining.
At lunch, chef Bill Kim introduced a handful of what he calls “dim ssam” (not to be confused with dim sum): a selection of Korean-influenced small plates, such as delicate mushroom-chicken dumplings or fragrant lemongrass fried rice. Try one for $6 or share up to four for $18. The daily ssam – a haute lettuce wrap with sesame leaves, soba noodles, kimchee and oil-poached shrimp – makes a wonderful small meal on its own.
Elsewhere on the menu, Mr. Kim impresses with balanced flavors that pull from Mediterranean and Asian kitchens, such as zucchini-wrapped tilapia with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette ($16) and short ribs with wok-seared vegetables ($18).
Is it a tad quiet inside? Maybe. But considering the exciting cooking, polished service and reasonable midday prices, we think this place should be a lot busier.