Review: Piatto in Edgebrook

By Laura Hansen at 2:34 pm on January 31, 2008 | No comments

I recently met Dan in a virtual way by stumbling onto his blog:  http://danielhonigman.com/

He’s a good writer and networker. I am certain we will be hearing more from him!

By Daniel B. Honigman

With good food, good service and a comfortable yet refined atmosphere, Piatto seems like the type of place you’d find on Randolph Street. But it’s not, and Edgebrook may now have a new neighborhood crown jewel.

In a 75-seat, 1,000-square-foot spot refined enough for foodies and hipster couples, but not too pretentious for children, Piatto head Chef Maurizio Fonda serves organic pastas, fresh pizzas and generous seafood portions.

Since arriving stateside in 1977, Fonda has worked stints in California, New York, Texas and Florida, but has lived in Chicago since 1990. He’s seen all types of American diners, but is happy Piatto, which opened in August, is in Edgebrook. “It’s a neighborhood that has been positive, and I think we’ve been good for them,” he says. “Our customers like the standards, but they’re open to newer things we put on the menu.”

A five-year Stefani Group veteran, Fonda, a transplanted Venetian, has mostly eschewed Chicago-style heavy sauces, but he manages to serve wholesome food in a refreshing way. And it’s clear he has Chicago diners all figured out: He oversees a staff that seems to dote on diners like Italian grandmothers. (Not that I’m complaining.)

Fittingly, I can think of only four words to describe Piatto: Good. Comfort. Food. Lots.

If you’re for starting out a meal with some real comfort food, you’ll want a nice bottle of red wine to balance it out-something bright, but not too full-bodied, like the 2005 Conti Contini Sangiovese ($30). With this on your palate, you’ll be able to wrap your taste buds around some of Piatto’s hearty appetizers.

Both the funghi ripieni ($7), a massive mushroom served with sausage and breadcrumbs in a tasty wine sauce; and the Salsiccia con fagioli ($8), a grilled sausage served on a bed of white cannellini beans, diced onions and tomatoes, are must-tries. For couples, a heaping order of mussels ($8), served in a not-too-spicy tomato sauce, will more than suffice.

Piatto dishes out a bevy of individual- and medium-sized pizzas ($11-$15), as well, ranging from your basic margherita to the Quattro Piatto, which is topped with fresh prosciutto, artichoke, olives and mushrooms.

In the spirit of the season, I tackled one of Fonda’s specials, a super-tasty pumpkin tortellacci dish with shitake mushrooms and fresh herbs in a mascarpone cream sauce. The pasta was surprisingly light, with its savory flavors balancing out the sweetness of the cheese and pumpkin. But if you’re a fish fan, Fonda’s salmone bruschetta ($23), a plate of salmon in a bruschetta sauce, is a simple dish done well.

To round out your meal, Piatto carries a selection of desserts ranging from the adventurous fragole alpine ($8)-an Austrian-Venetian delight that features a serving of vanilla gelato, fresh whipped cream, strawberries and sugar drizzled in a sweet vinaigrette, topped off with ground black pepper-to your standard tiramisu ($7).

The restaurant’s old-world comforts extend to the washrooms, as well: The men’s room is festooned with a poster of the Rat Pack, and the ladies’ room is chock full of lotions and perfumes.

Piatto is a dinner joint, open each day from 5 to 10 p.m. If you’re planning on heading over, stick to a light lunch before, because you’ll be hard-pressed to leave the restaurant hungry. But this is a good thing, of course. Just be prepared to bring home a doggie bag.

Piatto is located at 5304 W. Devon (              773/467-2000       )

This story originally appeared in the Jan. 8 issue of UR Chicago Magazine. You can pick it up from a UR Chicago box in downtown Chicago or you can read it here.

Piatto in Chicago (You can check out this review on UrbanSpoon.)


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Re-Opening: Oak Park Paradiso

By Laura Hansen at 1:55 pm on | No comments

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After a fire destroyed much of Oak Park’s 12-year-old Italian Cucina Paradiso, its owners revamped the decor and the menu, which is now a weekly changing selection of stone-baked pizzas, small plates and hearty entrees; most of the original staff has returned to the ‘new’ space featuring exposed-brick and ochre walls, a dramatic draped ceiling and a bar area serving happy-hour specials.814 North Blvd., Oak Park; 708-848-3434

Courtesy: www.zagat.com


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More Best Places to have Power Lunches

By Laura Hansen at 4:12 pm on January 30, 2008 | No comments

This is Part 2 in a series from the critics at Crain’s Chicago Business on the best places for business lunches.

DELACOSTA
Nuevo Latino
465 E. Illinois St.
(312) 464-1700
http://www.delacostachicago.com/

Edgy and imaginative, with theatrical flourishes and sizzling Nuevo Latino food, DeLaCosta stands apart from the mahogany- and leather-bound competition.

Where else would you find Tim Burton-esque marionettes and ghostly white masks?

At night, this artsy North Pier space can really rock; it’s better for festive occasions. During lunch it is nearly empty – a shame, because the roomy booths, ice-breaking décor and inventive cuisine are memorable. But it’s quiet enough to get work done.

The food reminds me of the music, contemporary and jazzy; it blends Spanish, South American and Caribbean flavors.

Ceviches are a must, bright and bold combinations of sweet and hot. Among the best: the fire and ice ($15) with Thai chile, fresh coconut and galangal, a ginger-like seasoning.

Hot and sweet peppers add zing to a smoked, shredded marlin sandwich on rye ($12) blanketed with mahon cheese.

Clever and delicious, the chocolate cigar ($7) comes with a side of chocolate ashes and candy matchbook – DeLaCosta’s answer to the smoking ban.

THE GAGE
Gastropub
24 S. Michigan Ave.
(312) 372-4243
http://www.thegagechicago.com/

With a gracious ambiance and imaginative menu, 2007 newcomer the Gage has become an instant casual favorite on a largely restaurant-free stretch of Michigan Avenue near Millennium Park. The vintage building and interior details – gray tin ceilings, glazed subway wall tiles, dark wood – lend an authentic vibe, backed up in spades by Irish owner Billy Lawless and his friendly, knowledgeable staff.

Modern takes on rich, stick-to-your-ribs dishes are where chef Dirk Flanigan has his fun. House-made sausages ($16) and roasted Amish chicken ($15) are hearty treats, as is the USDA prime burger ($14) with caramelized onions and Camembert. Crisp potato wedges and gooey planks of taleggio cheese play off peppery arugula and crème fraîche onion dressing in a terrific starter salad ($7) – not your ordinary plate of mesclun.

The Gage is a welcoming spot for larger groups. An extensive drink menu – lots of beers and single-malt scotches – keeps the bar area abuzz for after-work schmoozing, too

GIBSONS BAR & STEAKHOUSE
Steakhouse
1028 N. Rush St.
(312) 266-8999
http://www.gibsonssteakhouse.com/

Gibsons is everything a Chicago steakhouse aspires to be: clubby, the center of the action and a bit larger than life. Yes, that’s an alderman in the corner, a CEO across the way and a pro baseball player in the booth. This place is generally packed day in and day out with big-deal business folks and other movers and shakers.

The food is larger than life, too, starring enormous steaks, from porterhouse ($44) to filet ($35), and all kinds of chops (lamb, veal and pork, $38-$28). Newcomers will be treated to a tableside introduction of all the raw cuts.

Sides and desserts are equally outsized. Plan on sharing the huge double-baked potato ($7) or the platter of sautéed spinach and mushrooms ($13). A slice of carrot cake ($14) – in fact, it’s one-quarter of a cake – could easily feed four. Cocktails are just as big, natch. The three-martini lunch may be alive and well here – except all three fit in one Gibsons glass.

JOE’S SEAFOOD, PRIME STEAK & STONE CRAB
Seafood and steakhouse
60 E. Grand Ave.
(312) 379-5637
www.icon.com/joes

Equal parts entertainment and good cooking, Joe’s serves up a classic seafood and steak experience, complete with masculine décor, large portions and delightfully cheeky but consummate waiters. A lively bar area gives way to a spacious yet cozy dining room, with plenty of banquettes and round tables for the ample number of large parties that come here.

The chain’s Florida heritage comes into play on a menu stocked with regional seafood such as delicious, simply grilled grouper ($18) and the justly famous stone crabs, in all sizes (market price). Steak is expert.

For a bit more decadence, try crab-stuffed sole in lobster sauce, delicate and full of flavor ($22). “Jennie’s” potatoes will do the trick, too: mashed with taleggio and asiago cheeses and covered in breadcrumbs ($4).

Pie lovers are in for a treat. Dessert features a full lineup of old-fashioned varieties, including Key lime, peanut butter, butterscotch chiffon, banana cream and Boston cream. Try a few, if you like; they’re available in half-slices ($3-$4).

KEEFER’S
Steakhouse
20 W. Kinzie St.
(312) 467-9525
http://www.keefersrestaurant.com/

For working lunches in River North, Keefer’s is the go-to spot.

Well-spaced tables, razor-sharp service and sound-absorbing acoustics pay off in productive lunch hours with colleagues or customers.

Black-leather booths, linen tablecloths and granite and cherrywood accents say classic steakhouse. But the contemporary, circular architecture, airy interior and wide-ranging fare are new school.

Sixteen-foot floor-to-ceiling windows frame the central dining room; the massive, 50-foot, crescent-shaped bar is surrounded by booths and tables.

Executive chef John Hogan’s straight-shooting menu is far more ambitious than most, particularly at lunch, when you’ll find more than 20 solid options. Among them, eggs Benedict with black truffles ($13.95); lobster, shrimp and mussels pot pie ($19.95), and organic salmon with potato horseradish crust, lentils and buerre blanc ($25.95).

And then there’s prime steak, like a hefty rib eye sandwich with maître d’ butter ($26.95).

You’ll get a lot of bang for the buck. Soup or salad and potato are included with lunch entrees.

KIKI’S BISTRO
Classic French
900 N. Franklin St.
(312) 335-5454
http://www.kikisbistro.com/

If there is a master plan for French bistros, Kiki’s in River North wrote it.

This 17-year-old bastion of frog legs and coq au vin is off the beaten path and utterly charming. If you can’t kindle a deal or a romance here, you can’t do it anywhere.

At lunch the tenor is kicked-back; at night the clientele is rather debonair. Either way, it works for good conversation, whether in-depth or flirtatious.

The rustic décor still feels fresh. Pink linen tablecloths and a flock of rooster tchotchkes soften rugged wood ceiling beams and dark-wood floors.

The timeless menu provides some of the best French bistro cooking in the city.

Open lunch with smoky grilled shrimp and onion relish ($9.50). Steak-frites sandwich ($13.75) is great, but be different with pan-seared pork tenderloin ($14.75) next to green lentils, carrots and turnips.

Delicate, crisp pastry encases poached pears with caramel sauce in croustade de poire ($6.75).

READER’S COMMENT: “The food and service are awesome. You can sit and meet with clients for a long time with no pressure to pay up and get out.”

LE LAN
Asian-French
749 N. Clark St.
(312) 280-9100
http://www.lelanrestaurant.com/

Long popular for dinner, this Asian-French bistro opened for lunch in summer 2007. The result is a stylish oasis for sophisticated business dining.

At lunch, chef Bill Kim introduced a handful of what he calls “dim ssam” (not to be confused with dim sum): a selection of Korean-influenced small plates, such as delicate mushroom-chicken dumplings or fragrant lemongrass fried rice. Try one for $6 or share up to four for $18. The daily ssam – a haute lettuce wrap with sesame leaves, soba noodles, kimchee and oil-poached shrimp – makes a wonderful small meal on its own.

Elsewhere on the menu, Mr. Kim impresses with balanced flavors that pull from Mediterranean and Asian kitchens, such as zucchini-wrapped tilapia with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette ($16) and short ribs with wok-seared vegetables ($18).

Is it a tad quiet inside? Maybe. But considering the exciting cooking, polished service and reasonable midday prices, we think this place should be a lot busier.


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Scene Report: Chicago Restaurants

By Laura Hansen at 2:34 pm on January 29, 2008 | No comments

This article was written by www.gridskipper.com – lending a viewpoint on best places to go in Chicago from outside Chicago. 

Chicago has been an up and coming foodie city for awhile now. Each year, more and more exciting restaurants open, garnering national media attention and accolades from the likes of the James Beard Foundation. Chicago has always had deep-rooted culinary traditions albeit on the lowbrow end of things (pizza, hot dogs, pierogi, etc.). These days it’s the first place to look for cutting-edge cooking techniques, and it’s up there with New York and Los Angeles on its crop of astronomically expensive eateries. And just like those cities, restaurants open and close and chefs move so often it’s hard to keep track of what’s going on. Chitown still has a ways to go before it will be called an all-around food city, but the rabidity of the gourmand populace coupled with the number of new, excellent restaurants make it a definite food destination.

Most Buzz
Last Year: Sepia and Schwa. Rustic yet elegant Sepia opened in the Warehouse District last July to an incredible amount of buzz, and it hasn’t really let up in the past six months. Schwa earned buzz for its unique and intimate concept (there is no waitstaff, so the BOH is also the FOH), and for its sudden closure at the end of last year. It should be re-opening early this year, but one never knows. Both of these restaurants have gotten ink from all the big Chitown blogs, along with the mainstream press and travel guides.
Now: Graham Elliot. Graham Elliot Bowles recently left acclaimed restaurant Avenues to open his own “bistronomic” restaurant in River North. With the attention Bowles attracted at Avenues, Chicago foodies will be all over this place when it opens later this year. As for a place garnering the most buzz right now, that would have to be Takashi, opened late December 2007. Well-known chef Takashi Yagihashi returned to the Midwest from Vegas to open this swanky but intimate French American and Japanese fusion joint, and early reports are positive.

Most Overrated
Last Year: Bistro 110 and Bob Chinn’s Crabhouse. Both of these places’ times have come and gone. They still get great reviews, and locals will still recommend them to visitors, but the quality just isn’t all there anymore. You can get a much better meal for your money elsewhere in the city.
Now: Moto. I know I will get shit for this, but let the backlash against molecular gastronomy mecca Moto begin. Yes it’s delicious and innovative (and expensive), but the novelty of those paper-wrapped rolls is starting to wear off considering the range of better expensive meals you can get in Chicago and the growth of the molecular gastronomy in the mainstream.

Best Dining Neighborhood
Last Year: West Loop and the Market District have been growing in popularity, with restaurants like Avec, Blackbird, and One Sixtyblue all doing extremely well.
Now: Andersonville, the old Swedish part of town, is one of the most diverse areas of Chicago and is very young and up-and-coming. Also, the Lincoln Square/North Center area offers excellent ethnic cuisine, iconic German restaurants, and a number of buzzworthy eateries and bars.

Best Expensive Dinner
Last Year: Charlie Trotter’s. There are a lot of expensive restaurants to throw your money at in Chicago, from Moto to Tru to Alinea, but the expensive place to be in 2007 was Charlie Trotter’s as it celebrated its 20th anniversary. The place is iconic, classic, and still satisfying those with money decades after opening.
Now: Alinea. Chicago high-end dining seems synonymous with Alinea these days. The revelatory restaurant has been one of the top places in Chitown for a few years now, but with the recent announcement of chef Grant Achatz’s cancer remission, the Nightline spot, and all of the articles in every other known food rag, the place is going to be more popular than ever in 2008.

Best Cheap Dinner

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Last Year: Hop Leaf. If you want your fill of hearty, delicious food along with some of the best beers in Chicago all for a reasonable price, Hop Leaf is the place. If you stay away from the entrees and go for their sandwiches or their mussels special, you can pair it with a microbrew and be out of there for under $20.
Now: Sol De Mexico. The newish Sol De Mexico has been getting a lot of buzz for its high-end Mexican fare. It’s more expensive than the corner taqueria, but still more affordable than a lot of places in the city — and you get a lot of value for what you order. Yes, it’s four miles out of the Loop, but it’s worth the trek if you can make it.

Dining Trend
Last Year: Wood-fired pizzerias were the big thing last year, with the openings of Coalfire and Crust in addition to the 2006 openings of Gruppo di Amici, Trattoria D.O.C., Frasca, and Spacca Napoli.

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Now: As in the rest of the country, the farm-to-table trend will continue to dominate the restaurant scene; in Chicago, Bruce Sherman of North Pond is the figure leading the way. Another trend of 2008 will be more high end bakeries/cupcakeries. I’m betting by year’s end, Chicago will have just as many delicious cupcake outposts as LA and NYC.

Best Burger
Last Year: Rosebud Steakhouse. Last year, Rosebud Steakhouse’s juicy 12-ouncer won Metromix’s big burger-off with over 34 city judges. The burger comes on a pretzel-dough bun and is said to be heavy on the juice.
Now: Kuma’s Corner. Nothing makes Kuma Corner’s burger more “Now” than any other burger, but I felt it needed mention here. This is an institution for great burgers and divey atmosphere, and now more than ever, people are seeing it as a destination in its own right. Plus, each burger is named after a heavy metal band and is served by a tatted up and pierced waitress.

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Best Vegetarian
Now and Always: Green Zebra. Vegetarian isn’t really my forte, but Chicago vegetarians and food lovers in general have really lucked out with the Green Zebra, one of the most upscale vegetarian restaurants I’ve heard of in the country. Their tasting menu is legendary, and even devoted carnivores will appreciate the veggies in the spotlight here. If you want something more affordable, the city has a great selection of Ethiopian and Indian restaurants for an ethnic veggie meal.

Best Drinks
Last Year: Violet Hour. Chicago finally got its own speakeasy-themed cocktail bar a la New York’s Milk & Honey and San Fran’s Bourbon & Branch. Violet Hour is gorgeous, the drinks are innovative and delish, the scene is uber hip — what more could you want or expect in a new high-end cocktail lounge?
Now: Sepia. The bartender there recently won the “Chicago Iron Bartender” competition and is going to the finals in Vegas soon. Should he win, expect all kinds of new attention to be paid to the already buzzed-up Sepia.

Best Local Food & Dining Website
Last Year: LTH Forum. There’s no lack of excellent food blogs in Chicago. The dining community is rabid, and the city has been blessed with both a collection of good high-end restaurants and a tradition of low-end iconic foodstuffs. But in 2007, the best place to find up-to-date and useful restaurant info was the online community LTH Forum. There’s an overload of information, but it’s often the first place foodies and pro food writers go when researching a place to eat.
Soon: Eater Chicago. It hasn’t launched yet but we’ve heard rumors that it will be up at some point this spring. Considering foodies in New York, SF, and LA use the site as an important resource for staying up to date on the latest restaurant industry news, I suspect Chicago foodies will do the same when this one launches.

1:20 PM ON MON JAN 28 2008
BY AMANDA KLUDT
447 views

AMANDA KLUDT, CHICAGO, RESTAURANTS, SCENE REPORT, TOP


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Best Sushi of 2007

By Laura Hansen at 9:10 pm on January 28, 2008 | No comments
Audience Winner Editorial Winner
1. Coast Sushi
2045 N Damen Ave , Chicago , IL , 60647
Romance is in the air at this sexy Bucktown Japanese joint.
Blu Coral Contemporary Sushi
1265 N Milwaukee Ave , Chicago , IL , 60622
Contemporary sushi lounge Blu Coral brings it all – yin, yang, and yum to Wicker Park.
2. Japonais
600 W Chicago Ave , Chicago , IL , 60610
A sensuous scene and Eurasian-chic cuisine take Chicago’s fashionable foodies by storm.
3. Sushi Wabi
842 W Randolph St , Chicago , IL , 60607
Chicago’s original hipster sushi spot, this industrial Randolph Street fave serves up a mean plate of maki.
4. Hey Sushi
2630 N Clark St , Chicago , IL , 60614
User-friendly sushi spot offers maki rolls for the masses.
5. Wildfish
60 S Arlington Heights Rd , Arlington Heights , IL , 60005
Hip suburban sushi spot scores with urban feel and an accomplished menu.
6. Sushi X
1136 W Chicago Ave , Chicago , IL , 60622
Cool sushi clubhouse focuses on delivery and takeout, but tempts with a comfortable, loungey atmosphere.
7. Tank Sushi
4514 N Lincoln Ave , Chicago , IL , 60625
Hip Lincoln Square sushi destination scores with creative Japanese-Latin fare.
8. Hama Matsu
5143 N Clark St , Chicago , IL , 60640
Custom-made maki and well-done Korean favorites keep this casual B.Y.O.B. restaurant buzzing.
9. Kaze Sushi
2032 W Roscoe St , Chicago , IL , 60618
Intriguing specials and stylish surroundings draw a natty neighborhood crowd to this Japanese spot in Roscoe Village.
10. Sushi Samba Rio
504 N Wells St , Chicago , IL , 60610
A trendy crowd coos over daring Japanese-Brazilian fusion cuisine at this flashy dining destination.

Courtesy: www.chicago.citysearch.com


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