THE COOKING GODDESS DOES AIGRE DOUX

By: Laura Hansen LHansen99@comcast.net

“Ask not what you can do for your country, ask what’s for lunch.”
Orson Welles, actor, director (1915-1985)

My friend Allan had been bragging to me about Aigre Doux (www.aigredouxchicago.com) for a few months and I was ready to give it a try. Nestled corner of Kinzie and Franklin – a bakery (that was empty of pastry) greets you upon entering. At Aigre (sour) Doux (sweet), the ambience is minimalist, open and injects hints of simple elegance. Lined with Brazilian cherry wood and soft lighting, viewing the dining area – I rarely notice the wait staff buzzing about.

The husband and wife duo of Executive Chef Mohammad Islam and Pastry Chef Malika Ameen created their culinary magic at places like the Ritz Carleton/Chicago and Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles before launching Aigre Doux in early 2007.

The offerings kick up the culinary adventure, but also have classical roots. The French influence certainly is present (Steak Frites, Haricot Vert Soup), but infused with some contemporary American flair (Buffalo Ricotta & Corn Ravioli).

The appetizer choices are robust – ranging from traditional faire like Caesar salad, to ahi tuna or a roasted beet salad with fresh mozzarella and candied lemon. There are some pizza choices as well – ranging from a simple Greek offering with lamb, olives and feta to a tuna with wasabi cream and shisho.. We settled on the poached shrimp salad, with herbed butter lettuce, avocado and a tart champagne vinaigrette. The shrimp was luscious (although the serving was only two for each of us – I could have easily feasted on more) – the magic was certainly in the mysterious shrimp poaching liquid.

Although our waiter highly recommended the Grilled Chicken sandwich with avocado and herbed goat cheese – the chicken was dry, and I could find greens, but no goat cheese. The clear winner was Allan’s pan seared halibut – a beautiful piece of fish rolled in a heat infused rub with a splash of tomato vinaigrette. The fingerling potato accompaniment was a nice addition – sautéed baby moist delights.

Kudos to pastry chef Malika Ameen for her sticky toffee pudding offering. I’ve been pining for a sampling of sticky toffee pudding ever since it was under consideration as a new potential flavor for Hagen Dazs. It was served warm, with a dollop of Devonshire cream sorbet and citrus segments. I’m certain the clean plate club wins every time with whimsical dessert offerings such as Crème Fraiche Cheesecake and a malt infused custard with a hazelnut Kit Kat.

Sticky toffee pudding

Ingredients

8 ounces dates, finely chopped (about 1 1/4 cups packed)
1 cup boiling water
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
4 large eggs
1 3/4 cups self-rising flour
2 tablespoons instant coffee granules
1 teaspoon baking soda
Powdered sugar
whipped cream
Caramel Sauce

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 9-inch-diameter spring form pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment paper; butter parchment. Place chopped dates in small bowl. Pour 1 cup boiling water over dates and let cool, about 1 hour.
Using electric mixer, beat butter and sugar in large bowl to blend. Add 2 eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add half of flour and beat to blend. Add remaining 2 eggs, 1 at a time, beating to blend after each addition. Add remaining flour and beat until blended. Combine instant coffee and baking soda in small bowl. Pour into date mixture, stirring to dissolve coffee granules. Add date mixture to batter and beat to blend. Pour batter into prepared pan. Place on rimmed baking sheet and bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour.

Cool pudding until just warm. Unmold; sprinkle with powdered sugar. Cut into wedges and serve with whipped cream and Caramel Sauce.

Makes 12 servings

Courtesy: www.epicurious.com

THE COOKING GODDESS SAVORS A TASTE OF FRANCE

By: Laura Hansen   LHansen99@comcast.net

Come visit us at:  http://www.bestofthebestdiningchicago.com/

“How can you govern a country which has 246 varieties of cheese?”
Charles De Gaulle

My friend Bruce suggested we have lunch at Retro Bistro (www.retrobistro.com ).  I had not visited there since one of my friends turned 40 (and now she’s 51).  So, it was time!  Nestled in a cozy shopping center in Mt. Prospect, IL, Retro Bistro will be celebrating their 16^th year in business on June 15^th   This eatery is a second location for Dominique and Jacqueline Legeai – the first restaurant being D & J Bistro in Lake Zurich, which opened in 1987.

Retro is a family owned business and, as such, takes special care to treat customers as an extension of family.  They boast a 50% return rate …….customers come back often.  I asked Chris _______ some of the key reasons that keep customers coming back.  Chris said that the availability of fresh seafood and produce flown in from Hawaii and California allow the cuisine to be fresh and ever changing.  On any given day, they may have Mahi, Mahi, and Tilapia with a lobster mouse sauce or copper river(??)….salmon flown in from Alaska.  During lunch, I tasted the tarragon grouper and knew instantly how fresh it was. On this day, I chose the potato leek soup (light and creamy– with a stronger emphasis on the leeks), and the beef carpaccio roulade with celery root and red miso.  This appetizer was light yet full of flavor.  Aside from the fresh fish – signature dishes include braised rabbit; steak frites and their nightly price fix dinner.  Patrons can choose specialties in each of three courses for $31.50

The term bistro really surrounds “affordable” French food.  Most Parisians tend to eat at small cafes and bistros where they can savor fresh food at reasonable prices.  Head Chef Masato Suzuki was originally at the famous Le Titi de Paris.  His vision was to take what he learned and to simplify and scale the menu offerings in order to show a good value. 

There are so many important aspects to consider about smaller, family owned places.  Obviously, the cuisine, but also how each customer is greeted, seated and attended to.  Underneath the service, there can be other hidden gems.  In the case of Retro Bistro, one of those gems is the fact that they maintain a very “green” philosophy.  All paper, wine bottles – and any other material that can be recycled is.  I certainly hope in my culinary travels, I find more places acting responsibly about the environment, and about how to help local shelters and soup kitchens with leftover food. 

courtesy of Chicagotribune.com

Posted by Carol Mighton Haddix at 10:27 a.m. CDT

If you love the idea of recreating a great restaurant dish at home, you might want to check out “Impress for Less!” (Wiley, $18.95), a new cookbook by Hope Fox. Fox has gathered 100 recipes from well-known restaurants around the country, including eight from Chicago. We haven’t yet tried any of the recipes, but look forward to Arun’s pad Thai, Everest’s sauteed chicken breast ratatouille and Topolobampo’s Caesar salad.

Fox’s claim is that these are recipes you really can make at home. She writes that the recipes are “adapted with shortcuts, easy-to-find ingredient substitutions, and helpful hints that deliver delicious results without compromising the integrity of the recipe.”

Other Chicago restaurants in the book include Carlos’, Blackbird, Naha, Spiaggia and Tru. Look for the book in major bookstores and at Amazon.com.